Right Bank

Paris Guide©

Judy and Mel Croner

Right Bank Restaurants

La Régalade - Saint-Honoré. 123, rue Saint-Honoré, 1e, Métro: Louvre-Rivoli or Les Halles. Téléphone: 01.42.21.92.40. The second location for La Régalade, this one near rue Rivoli, the Louvre and the Pompidou. You are kept in place by the immediate service of a delicious homemade terrine while you wait for the slow service. The wait is worth it. Small regular menu plus seasonal specialties. Very French. Reservation several days in advance are necessary as now, like many small restaurants in Paris, there are two seatings. Nice wine list. Moderate +.

Grand Vefour. 17, rue Beaujolais, 1e. Métro: Palais Royal / Musée du Louvre. Téléphone: 01.42.96.56.27. We usually do not include "starred" restaurants in this guide, but could not resist including this jewel. One of the oldest restaurants in Paris, it is located at the "back" of the «Jardins du Palais Royal» in the shadow of Colette's apartment. It is owned by LVMH and is their "flagship" restaurant with almost as many servers a guest. The setting is spectacular ... turn of the 19th century Paris. The menu is creative. lush, and an culinary experience. The service is impeccable. Reservations, that must be made some time in advance, are a must. Don't come in jeans. Expensive +++.

Aux Lyonnais. 32, rue Saint Marc, 2e. Métro: Quatre-Septembre. Téléphone: 01.42.96.65.04. A very old, classical «bistrot», i.e., very limited menu; focus on cooking, but with lots of fat foods. Alain Ducasse invested in this restaurant and has put his touch on the menu without changing it's essential character. Starters included lovely fresh vegetables «crudités» served in pots and a mackerel served on seasonal vegetables. The quenelles use a recipe that is over 100 year old. Recently, fish has been added to the menu. Nice wine selection. Simply ask the sommelier for a wine that goes with what you have ordered. Reserve for a good table. Moderate.

Chez Georges. 1, rue du Mail, 2e. Métro: Bourse. (Just off the Places des Victoires.) Téléphone: 01.42.60.07.11. A classic Parisian bistro. The focus is on traditional French cooking. The restaurant has two rows of banquettes and a tile floor. The service is friendly and impeccable. Lots of offal such as «riz du veau» (kidneys) grilled with a wonderful béarnaise sauce. Chez Georges is very well known and with a somewhat trendy clientele, so it is a little pricey. Also, you will find many Americans dining there. Moderate, but well worth it. Reservations are absolutely necessary, so call a few days in advance.

Restaurant Saturne. 17 rue Notre Dame des Victoires, 2e. Métro Bourse. Téléphone: 01.42.60.31.90. The Scandanavian owners have taken the concept of wine bar to a new level with Saturne. It is a modern, spacious wine bar and restaurant located steps from the Bourse in Paris’s 2nd arrondissement. There is an open dining room, with sparse Scandinavian blond wood furnishings, a stunning glass atrium and semi-open kitchen. The terroir-driven cuisine is focused on bringing out the best in exceptional products, so sauces and spices are minimal. There is a fixed price dinner that includes either six plates or four plates. There is no wine list, put taker your server's advice. The wines are priced quite reasonably. Service was very attentive and the place is quiet. Reservations are a good idea. Moderate +.

Le [Restaurant] 404. 69, rue des Gravilliers, 3e. Métro: Arts et Métiers. Téléphone: 01.42.74.57.81. Very 'in" Moroccan restaurant. The menu is somewhat limited, but the food is very good. The place is NOISY, so be prepared for an assault on your senses unless you love sitting in front of the speakers at rock concerts. [You can ask the manager to lower the volume. It might work!] Lots of beautiful people. Good service. Moderate.

Dominique Bouchet ("DB"). 11, rue Treilhard, 8e. Métro: St. Augustin. Téléphone: 01.44.61.09.46. An upscale restaurant that was opened in late 2004 by Dominique Bouchet, former chef at the Crillon Hôtel. Modern, but warm interior. Classical bistro menu. Very good service. It is remains hot, so make a reservation. Moderate++.

Restaurant La Marée. 258, rue du faubourg Siant-Honoré et 1, rue daru. ë. Métro: Ternes. Téléphone: 01. 43.80.20.00 / http://www.lamaree.fr. An upscale seafood restaurant that formerly was among the most high priced restaurants in Paris. Attentive service until the after concert crowd arrived from Salle Playel across the street. Expensive.

Taillevent. 15, rue Lamennair, 8e. Métro: Forget the Métro, if you are going to spend this much on eating, take a taxi. Téléphone: 01.44.95.15.01. [ mail@taillevent.com ] This may be the best restaurant in the world. The entire experience is flawless, from arrival to departure. The ambience is lovely, but no overwhelming. The greeting and service fabulous, friendly and attentive. The food, like nothing else. This is a Michelin three-star that has held three stars for at least two decades. In 2007, it lost one of its stars, and, in early 2008, the owner, M. Jean-Claude VRINAT died. Reservations, in advance, are a necessity, if you can get them. (Call a month before you leave home!) Expensive +++.

Casa Olympe. 48, rue St-Georges, 9e. Métro: St-Georges. Téléphone: 01.42.85.26.01. A small, tight, "Med-Provençal" bistro that focuses on good cooking. The chef, Dominique Nahmias (aka "Olympe"), is a pioneering woman chef who has been on the Paris scene for over 30 years. There are two small rooms. We always request a table by the door to get some air. The roasted lamb served with roasted potatoes is superb. Because it is small, reservations are a must. Closed weekends. Moderate+.

Market. 15, avenue Matignon, 8e. Métro: Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau. Téléphone: 01.56.43.40.90. A hot, "trendy" restaurant just off the Champs-Elysées with a definite New-Yorkaise feel. They are open late, so is a good place for after theater. Don't go during regular dining hours. Menus has an Asian spin with lots of little plates presented in an artistic manner. Try the pizza. The restaurant is the creation of Jean - George Vongerichten of Jo-Jo fame. Expensive.

Charlot le Roi des Coquillages. 81, boulevard de Clichy (near Place de Clichy), 9e. Métro: Clichy. Téléphone: 01.53.20.48.00. A classical brasserie with a large, diverse menu. The restaurant is "1950's retro". The bouillabaisse is authentic and well served. Moderate ++. Reservations are a good idea as the brasserie often is booked.

La Pantruche. 3, rue Victor Massé, 9e. Métro: Pigalle. Téléphone: 01.48.78.55.60. Recently opended near Pigalle. The decor is simple; the food excellent. Chef Franck Baranger worked for Christian Constant (the Godfather of the neo-bistro movement), and here his menu includes a celery root soup, oyster tartare, a standout côte de cochon, braised beef cheeks, and a gorgeous Grand Marnier soufflé. Two courses at lunch for 17€, three at dinner for 32€.

la Petite Sirène de Copenhague. 47, rue Notre-Dame de Lorette, 9e. Métro: St. Georges. Téléphone: 01 45 26 66 66. You are welcomed at the door by charming Chef and owner, Peter Thulstrop. An authentic Scandinavian menu with wonderful smoked salmon and even better marinated herring. The ambiance is simple, but charming; the service attentive with Peter stopping by often to ensure that all is going well. Since it is a small restaurant, reservations are a good idea. Moderate +.

Restaurant Pétrelle. 32, rue Pétrelle, 9e. Métro: Anvers or Poissoneire. Téléphone: 01.42.82.11.02. Bibelots, plants and books on each table along with fresh flowers. Single chef in the kitchen preparing each dish to order. 28€ for a fixed price, 3-course dinner. Moderate.

Chez Michel. 10, rue Belzunce, 10e. Métro: Poissoniere. Téléphone: 01.44.53.06.20. A small and somewhat cramped restaurant just across the church of St. Vincent de Paul. The menu features the Brittany specialties of the chef, Thierry Breton. The food was excellent. A good idea to reserve, and make sure they verify how many people are coming. Moderate.

Terminus Nord Restaurant. 23, rue de Dunkerque, 10e. Métro: Gare du Nord. Téléphone: 01 42 85 05 15. An authentic 1920's Paris Brasserie. Look no farther than the sauerkraut, oysters and grills for a satisfying meal. Friendly service. Help it all slide down with one of their highly drinkable wines by the pitcher. Open late. Moderate ++

Repaire de Cartouche. 8, boulevard filles du Calvaire, 11e. Métro: Filles du Calvaire. Téléphone: 01.47.00.25.86. A somewhat funky restaurant on two levels. Their specialty is game such as deer «biche». Our server tried hard but needed help. Moderate.

l'Oursine. 92, rue Broca, 13e. Métro: Gobelins. Téléphone: 01.44.07.13.65. A neighborhood jewel. The chef was formerly at Régalade. Creative, "black board" bistro cooking. Friendly, out-of-the-way location. Reservations are a very good ideal. Moderate.

Astrance. 4, rue Beethoven, 16e. Métro: Passy. Téléphone: 01.40.50.84.40. A very "hot" restaurant in the fashionable 16éme arrondisement. Contemporary, «New Yorkaise» decor. Very inventive cuisine. Excellent service. To reserve you must call at least 30-days in advance ... or more. Expensive.

Fakhr El Dine. 30, rue de Longchamp, 16e. Métro: Trocadéro. Téléphone: 01.47.27.90.00 An excellent Lebanese restaurant with a wide selection of regional favorites and excellent service. The service is overseen by the owner / manager who takes each order and serves each plate. Try the Lebanese wines, they are excellent. Moderate.

Hiramatsu. 52, rue de Longchamp, 16e. Métro: Trocadéro. Téléphone: 01.56.81.08.80. A very trendy, "in" restaurant. While the name and chef are Japanese, the cooking is French. Very creative French cuisine ... to the ultimate. In October 2004, the restaurant moved from the Ile St. Louis to a larger location in the «16éme arrondisement». Also in 2004, Hiramatsu was awarded a Michelin star. Try «le menu degustation». It is necessary to book exactly one-month in advance. Expensive +.

Petit Retro. 5, rue Mesnil, 16e. Métro: Victor Hugo. Téléphone: 01.44.05.06.05. Something of a rarity, a good bistro in the «16éme arrondisement.» Somewhat trendy, the owners are very pleasant and more professional than the staff. Nice selection of starters and main plates and a reasonable wine list. Moderate.

le Bistral. 80, Rue Lemercier, 17e. Métro: Brochant. Téléphone: 01.42.63.59.61. First-class gourmet dining in a friendly bistro setting. Tucked away in the 'bo bo' (bourgeois boheme) Batignolles neighbourhood of Paris’ 17th arrondissement, this little French gastro restaurant gets raves from its loyal fans. Innovation comes before tradition in Kanayama Yasuhiro’s full-flavoured, sometimes playful but always sincere cooking. Service is generously attentive and sincere, and the setting simple: stone walls, wood floors, and round-seated bistro stools placed at colorful mosaic-topped tables. Excellent wine list. Le Bistral’s amiable owner Alexandre uses his expert nose to make perfect recommendations. Reservations are a must. Moderate.

le Bouchon et l'Assiette, 127, rue Cardinet. 17é. Métro: Ternes or Villiers. Features a 3-course "menu" at 36 €. The old restaurant was taken over by Clement Vidalon and Cecile Delabre. The decor is very simple; there is a daily menu on a chalkboard. Cecile is a lovely, attentive maître d’hôtel. The food is inventoive and excellent. Moderate.

Les Grandes Bouches, 78 rue Lévis. 1é. Métro: Villiers. Téléphone: 01.43.80.40.36. A treasure hidden on a small shopping street near the rue Lévis market. The menu is highly inventive using exotic vegetables and meats. The service is attentive and can be slow if the kitchen is busy. Moderate.

Le Nem. 67, Rue Rennequin, 17e, Métro:Pereire. Téléphone: 01 47 66 54 41. An intimate Vietnamese restaurant with a high quality and consistenly good offering (pho, bow bun, nem, shrimps grilled pepper-and-salt). Very friendly, if somewhat slow service. Moderate + but worth it if you want good Vietnamese food.

le Bistrot d'à Côté. 10, rue Gustave-Flaubert, 17e. Metro: Courcelles. Téléphone: 01.47.63.25.61. One of the "baby" bistros of two-star chef, Michel Rostang. An excellent, small bistro with exceptional cooking. Moderate, but a real value for what you get. Service can range from excellent to snotty. In the summer, ask for a table «sur la terrasse» (outside).

le Baratin. 3, rue Jouye-Rouve, 20e. Métro Pyrénées. Just off rue Belleville. Téléphone: 01.43.49.39.70. A true retro that has become a hang-out for French chefs. The restaurant is “compact”, comprised of two small rooms. The menu is limited. Stick with the meat dishes; the fish was bland and uninteresting. Reservations are necessary. Moderate.

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