Paris Guide©

Judy and Mel Croner

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Left Bank Restaurants

Degrés de Notre Dame. 10, rue des Grands Degrés. 5e. Métro: Maubert Mutualité (walk toward the Seine) or Hotel de Ville (walk behind Notre Dame, cross the Seine and the quai, then turn right). Téléphone: 01.55.42.88.88. In the heart of the Latin Quarter, directly across the Seine from Notre Dame, this small, charming restaurant is tucked away behind quai de Montebello.  While it offers a traditional French menus, the Moroccan chef out does himself preparing a wonderful selections of couscous.  Moderate.

Au Bon Accueil. 14, rue Monttessuy, 7e. Métro: Invalides or La Tour Maubourg. Téléphone: 01.47.05.46.11.  A classical bistro with a changing menu based on what's in season at the local markets.  Well prepared, yet simple dishes and a very nice wine list.  The young servers were friendly and attentive.  One of Patricia Wells' favorties.  Moderate +.

l'Affriolé. 17, rue Malar, 7e. Métro: La Tour Maubourg. Téléphone: 01.44.18.31.33. Small classical Paris bistro.  Limited but inventive menu.  You must call for a reservation as this is a "hot" restaurant.  Moderate.

Florimond. 19, avenue de la Motte-Picquet, 7e. Métro: École Militaire. Téléphone: 01.45.55.40.38.  A small, neighborhood bistro with creative cooking. The owner, M. Laurent MARTIN is charming and his staff is friendly.  Even the chef appeared at the end of the meal to say hello.  There is seating on the «terrasse» if the weather permits. It was a non-smoking establishment before the law went into effect in 2008.  Reservations are a good idea.  Moderate.

La Fontaine de Mars. 129, rue Saint-Dominique, 7e. Métro: École Militaire or the 92 Bus. (Just off avenue Bosquet.) Téléphone: 01.47.05.46.44. An authentic bistro with hearty cooking. There is an upstairs which, if not crowded, can be quite pleasant. There is a printed menu plus daily specials on the chalk board.  In the summer, there is a small but very pleasant terrasse facing the fountain. Moderate.

Le Voltaire. 27, quai Voltaire, 7e. (Near the Pont du Carrousel, across the Seine from Le Louvre.) Métro: Pont Neuf (then cross the River). Téléphone: 01.42.61.17.49 or 01.49.27.01.27. A classical French restaurant frequented by the upscale local from the "hood." Offers an extensive menu with a daily specials. Excellent and reasonable wine list. Reservations are a must!  Ask to be seated in the room at the rear. Expensive.

Ze Kitchen Gallerie. 4, rue des Grands Augustins, 6e. Metro: Saint-Michel.  Téléphone: 01.44.32.00.32.   Chef William Ledeuil has his finger (and palate) on the pulse of the modern diner. Despite the kitschy name, Ze Kitchen Galerie is a delight.  The menu is divided between soups, pastas, raw and marinated fish, and main courses, all cooked à la plancha, or directly over a very hot, flat griddle. Examples include platters of oysters, mussels, and sea urchins served with herb sauce and crostini (breadsticks), and grilled shoulder of wild boar with tamarind sauce. Desserts are modern and unusual.  Reservations are mandatory.  Expensive.

a la Biche au Bois.  45, avenue Ledru-Rollin, 12e.  Métro: Gare de Lyon.  Téléphone:  01.43.43.34.48.  Very authentic home-style French countryside cuisine, and vivacious atmosphere packed with Parisians privy to the local hot spots.  Specialties are game and meat.  The desserts are huge.  The place is very small with tables crowed next to each other.  Nice, straight-forward wine list including very acceptable carafes of house red and white.  Moderate.  

l'Avant Goût. 26, rue Bobilloût. 13e. Métro: Corvisart. Téléphone: 01.53.80.24.00. A small, trendy bistro in an out-of-the-way part of Paris, not far from Place d'Italie. Small but inventive menu.  Good service.  Moderate+.

le Severo. 8, rue des Plantes, 4e. Métro: Mouton Duvernet.  Téléphone: 01-45-40-40-91.  The restaurant le Severo is a micro wine bar with a long list of wines posted on the walls.  It is tiny with less than a dozen tables. However, it has a very human touch with a most cordial service team.  This is not a restaurant for vegetarians.  The steaks are large, tasty and always served rare.  (Don't ask for a well done steak, they might throw you out.)  There is nothing but meat on the menu.  (The owner has a fish restaurant at the next corner.)  Because of the small space, it is absolutely necessary to reserve.  Moderate +.

La Cerisaie. 70, boulevard Edgar Quinet, 14e. Métro: Edgar Quinet (Line N° 6). Téléphone: 01.43 20 98 98. A tiny, family operated bistro with superb cooking.  The bistro recently won an award for the best cooking in Paris.  It is located within sight of «Le Tour Montparnasse» but has a neighborhood feel.  Reservations are an absolute necessity as there are only six tables.  Moderate.

Régalade. 49, avenue Jean Moulin, 14e. Métro: Alésia. Téléphone: 01.45.45.68.58. In an out of the way part of Paris near the southern boundary of the city. A retro bistro with very hearty food. The table, a rough plank-like surface, come replete with gherkins, salami, and vegetables. Portions are very generous. If you have high cholesterol, bring your pills! Moderate+.  Difficult to get into; reserve early.

There also is Régalade-Saint-Honoré near the Pompidou Centre.  123 rue Saint-Honoré, 1e. Phone: 01 42 21 92 40. This second restaurant is very near the Louvre and the Hotel de Ville.  The menu is very similar as are the prices.  Service can be slow as the restaurant usually is booked.

Restaurant Jadis.  208, rue de la Croix.  15e.  Métro: Nivert.  Téléphone:  01.45.57.73.20 / contact @bistrot-jadis.com.  Named the best bistro in Paris in 2010, this simple place tucked in to the southern end of the 15th arrondisement has not let the publicity go to its head.  (Be prepared for a long walk if you take the Métro!)  Limited but interesting menu.  Simple wine list.  Since it always is full and French restaurants never have enough help, service can be a bit slow.  More than worth the wait.  Moderate +.

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