Paris Guide©
Mel & Judith Croner

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Right Bank Restaurants

Le Grand Vefour. 17, rue Beaujolais, 1e. Métro: Palais Royal / Musée du Louvre. Téléphone: 01 42 96 56 27.  http://www.grand-vefour.com/.  We usually do not include "starred" restaurants in this guide, but could not resist including this jewel.  One of the oldest restaurants in Paris, it is located at the "back" of the «Jardins du Palais Royal» in the shadow of Colette's apartment.  It is owned by LVMH and is their "flagship" restaurant with almost as many servers a guest.  The setting is spectacular ... turn of the 19th century Paris.  The menu is creative. lush, and an culinary experience.  The service is impeccable.  Reservations, that must be made some time in advance, are a must.  Don't come in jeans.  Expensive +++.

Aux Lyonnais
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32, rue Saint Marc, 2e. Métro: Quatre-Septembre. Téléphone: 01 42 96 65 04.
http://www.alain-ducasse.com/public_us/cest_aussi/fr_aulyonnais.htm. A very old, classical «bistrot», i.e., very limited menu; focus on cooking, but with lots of fat foods.  Alain Ducasse invested in this restaurant and has put his touch on the menu without changing it's essential character.  Starters included lovely fresh vegetables «crudités» served in pots and a mackerel served on seasonal vegetables. The quenelles use a recipe that is over 100 year old.  Nice wine selection.  Simply ask the sommelier for a wine that goes with what you have ordered.  Reserve for a good table.  Moderate.

Chez Georges. 1, rue du Mail, 2e. Métro: Bourse. (Just off the Places des Victoires.) Téléphone: 01 42 60 07 11. A classic Parisian bistro. The focus is on traditional French cooking. The restaurant has two rows of banquettes and a tile floor. The service is friendly and impeccable. Lots of offal such as «riz du veau» (kidneys) grilled with a wonderful béarnaise sauce. The restaurant is very well known and with a somewhat trendy clientele, so it is a little pricey.  Also, you will find many Americans dining there.  Moderate, but well worth it. Reservations are absolutely necessary, so call a few days in advance.

Benoit. 20, Rue Saint Martin, 4e. Métro: Châtelet or Hôtel de Ville. Téléphone: 01 42 72 25 76.  Alain Ducasse, the superchef behind Michelin three-star restaurants in Paris, Manhattan and Monte Carlo, is buying up France's most authentic bistros. His latest acquisition is Benoit, a 1912 landmark with a Michelin star near the Centre Pompidou. He hasn't changed a red velvet banquette or brass coat rack, but he has reinvigorated the menu of cuisine bourgeoise: langue de veau lucullus (tender slices of tongue with foie gras); scallops paired with capers, crisp croutons and shards of lemon zest confit; tiny frog's legs with black trumpet mushrooms in a pool of cream. The $45 prix fixe at lunch is a stunning bargain.  The cassoulet is both traditional and delicious.  Very extensive wine list.  Moderate ++.  Reservations required.

Breizh Café. 109, rue du Temple, 3e. Métro: St. Paul. Téléphone: 01 42 72 13 77.  URL: www.breizhcafe.comAn authentic Breton créperie with both salty (buckwheat) and sweet crepes.  It is a small cafe in the Marais, so one may be required to wait.  The authenticity runs to the Bretagne chins and fair completions of the waiters.  Moderate.

Dominique Bouchet
("DB"). 11, rue Treilhard, 8e. Métro: St. Augustin. Téléphone: 01 44 61 09 46. http://www.dominique-bouchet.com/.  An upscale restaurant that was opened in late 2004 by Dominique Bouchet, former chef at the Crillon Hôtel.  Modern, but warm interior.  Classical bistro menu.  Very good service.  It is remains hot, so make a reservation.  Moderate++.

Taillevent.
15, rue Lamennair, 8e. Métro: Forget the Métro, if you are going to spend this much on eating, take a taxi. Téléphone: 01 44 95 15 01. [
mail@taillevent.com ] This may be the best restaurant in the world.  The entire experience is flawless, from arrival to departure.  The ambience is lovely, but no overwhelming.  The greeting and service fabulous, friendly and attentive.  The food, like nothing else.  This is a Michelin three-star that has held three stars for at least two decades.  In 2007, it lost one of its stars, and, in early 2008, the owner, M. Jean-Claude VRINAT died.  Reservations, in advance, are a necessity, if you can get them.  (Call a month before you leave home!)  Expensive +++.

Casa Olympe. 48, rue St-Georges, 9e. Métro: St-Georges. Téléphone: 01 42 85 26 01. http://www.casaolympe.com/.  A small, tight, "Med-Provençal" bistro that focuses on good cooking.  The chef, Dominique Nahmias (aka "Olympe"), is a pioneering woman chef who has been on the Paris scene for over 30 years.  There are two small rooms. We always request a table by the door to get some air.  The roasted lamb served with roasted potatoes is superb.  Because it is small, reservations are a must.  Closed weekends.  Moderate+.

Market. 15, avenue Matignon, 8e. Métro: Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau. Téléphone: 01 56 43 40 90http://www.jean-georges.com/. A hot, "trendy" restaurant just off the Champs-Elysées with a definite New-Yorkaise feel.  They are open late, so is a good place for after theater.  Don't go during regular dining hours.  Menus has an Asian spin with lots of little plates presented in an artistic manner.  Try the pizza.  The restaurant is the creation of Jean - George Vongerichten of Jo-Jo fame. Expensive.

Charlot le Roi des Coquillages. 81, boulevard de Clichy (near Place de Clichy), 9e. Métro: Clichy Téléphone: 01 53 20 48 00. http://www.charlot-paris.com/.  A classical brasserie with a large, diverse menu.  The restaurant is "1950's retro".  The bouillabaisse is authentic and well served.  Moderate ++.  Reservations are a good idea as the brasserie often is booked.

Chez Michel. 10, rue Belzunce, 10e. Métro: Poissoniere. Téléphone: 01 44 53 06 20.  http://www.chez-michel.fr/.  A small and somewhat cramped restaurant just across the church of St. Vincent de Paul.  The menu features the Brittany specialties of the chef, Thierry Breton.  The food was excellent.  A good idea to reserve, and make sure they verify how many people are coming. Moderate.

Restaurant Astier. 44, Rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud, 11e. Métro: Parmentier  Téléphone: 01 43 57 16 35.  http://www.restaurant-astier.com/.  Formerly a simple working-class restaurant, Astier is newly elevated thanks to new ownership and a chef who earned his stripes at Le Meurice. The «prix fixe» dinner menu comes with a generous cheese platter that makes it a favorite among budget-conscious diners. The original 1950’s wood paneling and flea-market finds lend the restaurant a kitschy charm.  The service is good-humored and the staff efficient and knowledgeable. The owner, Frédéric Hubig-Schall, has a flair for picking original, affordable wines, so let the servers guide you to the best wine choice.  Like many Paris bistros, Astier books two seatings per night.  Be prepared to wait up to an hour if you booked the second seating.  Moderate. +

Le Châteaubriand. 129, avenue Parmentier, 11e. Métro: Goncourt Téléphone: 01 43 57 45 95. A very "in" restaurant populated with the French version of "yuppies", c'est a dire, «BoBo's» who are never without their cell phones or Blackberries.  However, the 33 € fixed menu (only!) was delightful and the service friendly and efficient.  Moderate.

Repaire de Cartouche. 8, boulevard filles du Calvaire, 11e. Métro: Filles du Calvaire. Téléphone: 01.47.00.25.86. A somewhat funky restaurant on two levels.  Their specialty is game such as deer «biche».  Our server tried hard but needed help.  Moderate.

Astrance.
4, rue Beethoven, 16e. Métro: Passy. Téléphone: 01 40 50 84 40. http://lastrance.abemadi.com/fr/r/Paris/132/.  A very "hot" restaurant in the fashionable 16éme arrondisement.  Contemporary, «New Yorkaise» decor. Very inventive cuisine.  Excellent service.  To reserve you must call at least 30-days in advance ... or more.  Expensive.

Fakhr El Dine. 30, rue de Longchamp, 16e. Métro: Trocadéro. Téléphone: 01 47 27 90 00.  http://www.fakhreldine.com/.   An excellent Lebanese restaurant with a wide selection of regional favorites and excellent service.  The service is overseen by the owner / manager who takes each order and serves each plate.  Try the Lebanese wines, they are excellent.  Moderate.

Hiramatsu. 52, rue de Longchamp, 16e. Métro: Trocadéro. Téléphone: 01 56 81 08 80.  http://www.hiramatsu.co.jp/fr/.  A very trendy, "in" restaurant.  While the name and chef are Japanese, the cooking is French.  Very creative French cuisine ... to the ultimate.  In October 2004, the restaurant moved from the Ile St. Louis to a larger location in the «16éme arrondisement».   Also in 2004, Hiramatsu was awarded a Michelin star.  Try «le menu degustation».  It is necessary to book exactly one-month in advance.  Expensive +.

Le Petit Retro
. 5, rue Mesnil, 16e. Métro: Victor Hugo. Téléphone: 01 44 05 06 05. http://www.petitretro.fr/.  Something of a rarity, a good bistro in the «16éme arrondisement.»  Somewhat trendy, the owners are very pleasant and more professional than the staff.  Nice selection of starters and main plates and a reasonable wine list.  Moderate. 

Clocher Pèriere. 42, boulevard Pèrrier, 17e. Métro: Wagram. Téléphone: 01 44 40 04 15.  A somewhat out-of-the-way restaurant tucked on Boulevard Pèriere.  Limited by inventive menu.  Charming ambiance with attentive service.  Somewhat small portions.  Moderate ++.  Difficult to get into; reserve in advance.

Le Bistrot d'à Côté. 10, rue Gustave-Flaubert, 17e. Metro: Courcelles. Téléphone: 01 47 63 25 61. http://www.michelrostang.com/. One of the "baby" bistros of two-star chef, Michel Rostang. (There is another at 16 avenue Villiers, 17e. Metro: Villiers., but we've had very bad service there.) An excellent, small bistro with exceptional cooking. Moderate, but a real value for what you get. Service can range from excellent to snotty. If you like what is being offered, select your meal from the one of the menus ... a value. In the summer, ask for a table «sur la terrasse»(outside).

Jardin de San Souci
. 124, avenue de Villiers, 17e. Métro: Pèriere. Téléphone: 01.42.27.20.18. A special Chinese restaurant. We ordered without a menu based on the recommendations of friends. Special dishes included: pot stickers; scallops in the shell (they were in season); shrimps. Attentive service.  Moderate +.

L'Huîtrier.
16, rue Saussier-Leroy, 17e.  Métro: Ternes 
Téléphone:  01 40 54 83 44.  Métro: Ternes.  If you have a craving for oysters, this is the place for you. The friendly owner will describe the different kinds available; you can follow these with any of several daily fish specials. The excellent cheeses are from the outstanding cheese shop of Roger Alléosse.  Blond wood and cream tones prevail. Should you have trouble getting a table, L'Huîtrier also runs the Presqu'île next door. Moderate ++.

La Table d’Eugène. 18, rue Eugène-Sue (rue Marcadet), 15e.  Téléphone: 01 42 55 61 64.  In a neighborhood unknown to most tourists (the other side of the Montmartre hill), two young chefs are drawing critics to the far end of the four Métro line. Geoffrey Maillard and Francois Vaudeschamps have put together a contemporary bistro menu anchored by classic cuts (côte de veau, côte de porc) dressed up in the season’s most fashionable sauces. Prix-fixe at 30€ with some pricey wines on offer.  Closed Sunday night and Monday night. Friendly, fun service.  It is a small restaurant so reservations are a must. Moderate +.


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