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Mel & Judith Croner

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Left Bank Restaurants

Degrés de Notre Dame. 10, rue des Grands Degrés. 5e. Métro: Maubert Mutualité (walk toward the Seine) or Hotel de Ville (walk behind Notre Dame, cross the Seine and the quai, then turn right). Téléphone: 01 55 42 88 88. In the heart of the Latin Quarter, directly across the Seine from Notre Dame, this small restaurant is tucked away behind quai de Montebello.  It is a very good place for couscous.  Go when you can sit on the downward slanting «terrasse».  Moderate.

Le 21. 21, rue Mazarine. 6e. Métro: Odéon. Téléphone: 01 46 33 76 90. Near boulevard St-Michel, this small restaurant is a jewel.  The owner, Paul Minchelli, ran a well known restaurant before opening in the space of the former «La Cafetière»  Specialties tend toward seafood, e.g., fish, sardines, haring.  You can trust the advice of Sommelier Didier Granier regarding a good and reasonably priced wine.  Because of its size and popularity, reservations are mandatory.  Moderate ++.

Fogon. 45, quai des Grands Augustins, 6e. Métro: St. Michel. Téléphone: 01 43 54 31 33. URL: www.fogon.fr.   A traditional Spanish restaurant that stays open late.  Specialties are "rices" of various kinds.  Offers a value menu with tapas and a rice dish.  The rice dishes are served in the cooking pot at your table.  The staff offers help with the Spanish wines.  Moderate ++.  Reservations are needed, particularly for late dining.

l'Affriolé. 17, rue Malar, 7e. Métro: La Tour Maubourg. Téléphone: 01 44 18 31 33. Small classical Paris bistro.  Limited but inventive menu.  You must call for a reservation as this is a "hot" restaurant.  Moderate.

l'Ami Jean. 1927, rue Malar, 7e. Métro: Invalides or Bus 92 - Stop: Bosquet- Rapp. Téléphone: 01 47 05 86 89.  http://www.amijean.eu/. Recently taken over by Stéphane Jégo, formerly of La Régalade, this restaurant features a wide selection, including several interesting varieties of couscous.  It is small with tables pushed very close.  Service can be rushed and rude.  Reservations are a good idea.  Moderate +.

La Fontaine de Mars. 129, rue Saint-Dominique, 7e. Métro: École Militaire or the 92 Bus. (Just off avenue Bosquet.) Téléphone: 01 47 05 46 44. http://fontainedemars.com/index.html. An authentic bistro with hearty cooking. There is an upstairs which, if not crowded, can be quite pleasant. There is a printed menu plus daily specials on the chalk board.  In the summer, there is a small but very pleasant terrasse facing the fountain. Since President Obama at here, reservations are absolutely necessary.  Moderate.

Le Voltaire. 27, quai Voltaire, 7e. (Near the Pont du Carrousel, across the Seine from Le Louvre.) Métro: Pont Neuf (then cross the River). Téléphone: 01 42 61 17 49 or 01 49 27 01 27. A classical French restaurant frequented by the upscale local from the "hood." Offers an extensive menu with a daily specials. Excellent and reasonable wine list. Reservations are a must!  Ask to be seated in the room at the rear. Expensive.

Ze Kitchen Galerie. 4, rue des Grands Augustins, 6e. Metro: Saint-Michel.  Téléphone: 01 44 32 00 32.  http://www.zekitchengalerie.fr/.  Chef William Ledeuil has his finger (and palate) on the pulse of the modern diner. Despite the kitschy name, Ze Kitchen Galerie is a delight.  The menu is divided between soups, pastas, raw and marinated fish, and main courses, all cooked à la plancha, or directly over a very hot, flat griddle. Examples include platters of oysters, mussels, and sea urchins served with herb sauce and crostini (breadsticks), and grilled shoulder of wild boar with tamarind sauce. Desserts are modern and unusual.  Reservations are mandatory.  Expensive.

l'Avant Goût. 26, rue Bobilloût. 13e. Métro: Corvisart. Téléphone: 01 53 80 24 00. http://www.lavantgout.com/.  A small, trendy bistro in an out-of-the-way part of Paris, not far from Place d'Italie. Small but inventive menu.  Good service.  Moderate+.

l'Oursine. 92, rue Broca, 13e. Métro: Gobelins. Téléphone: 01 44 07 13 65. A neighborhood jewel.  The chef was formerly at Régalade.  Creative, "black board" bistro cooking.  Friendly, out-of-the-way location.  Reservations are a very good ideal.  Moderate.

Le Severo, 8, rue des Plantes, 14e. Métro: Mouton Duvernet  Téléphone: 01 45 40 40 91The restaurant le Severo is a micro wine bar with a long list of wines posted on the walls.  It is tiny with less than a dozen tables. However, it has a very human touch with a most cordial service team.  This is not a restaurant for vegetarians.  The steaks are large, tasty and always served rare.  (Don't ask for a well done steak, they might throw you out.)  There is nothing but meat on the menu.  (The owner has a fish restaurant at the next corner.)  Because of the small space, it is absolutely necessary to reserve.  Moderate.

La Régalade. 49, avenue Jean Moulin, 14e. Métro: Alésia. Téléphone: 01 45 45 68 58. http://www.laregalade.com/.  In an out of the way part of Paris near the southern boundary of the city. A retro bistro with very hearty food. The table, a rough plank-like surface, come replete with gherkins, salami, and vegetables. Portions are very generous. If you have high cholesterol, bring your pills! Difficult to get into; reserve early. Moderate. 

Afaria. 15, rue Desnouettes (rue de Vaugirard) 15e. Métro: Convention.  Téléphone: 01 48 56 15 36.  A recent addition to the burgeoning far-fifteenth arrondisement scene, Afaria has been pimped as “the new Spring.” Julien Dudoué, a young talented Chief and her spouse have launched this very successfully new restaurant. Don't miss the "Apple Boudin", splendid! Good service and a large choice of "Tapas" will be proposed at night, up to 1 AM. Closed all day Sunday and for Monday lunch.  The restaurant books two seatings per night, so be prepared to wait if you booked the second seating.  Good and reasonable wine list.  Moderate +.

Jadis.
208, rue de la Croix-Nivert (rue Théodore Deck) 15e.  Métro: Boucicaut. Téléphone: 01 45 57 73 20 .  Trumpeted by Le Figaro as "the best bistrot of the fall," and by Le Fooding as the best Paris bistrot, Jadis is the newest reason to trek to the far reaches of the 15éme arrondisement. Guillaume Delage is the young chef with training at Gaya, le Pré Catelan and Michel Bras before setting up shop around the corner from Afaria.  His 32 € menu is based on classic snout-to-tail cooking. A recent menu featured roast veal with swiss chard and kidney, plus a side dish that used the animal's brains and feet. Just named by Le Chef magazine as «tremplin de l'année» (one to watch), Delage is indeed being closely followed, so book ahead. Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday. Moderate ++.

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