Paris Guide^©
Mel & Judith Croner

Day #1

Arc de Triomphe, at the end of Avenue des Champs Élysées. While you must hassle walking in the pedestrian tunnel under l'Étoile to get to the Arc de Triomphe and you may have to wait in line, the view from the Arc de Triomphe is the best "high" view of Paris. Because it is not so high, the scale is more human, yet the coverage is very good. From the Arc de Triomphe, walk down with Avenue Champs d'Élysées toward the Place de la Concorde.

The Musée de l'Orangerie is across the Place de la Concorde, on your right as you walk down Avenue Champs d'Élysées. The museum was closed for over three year and re-opened in mid-May 2006.  Start by visiting Les Nymphéas, Monet's "Waterlilies", in two special rooms in the sous-sol ("basement"). The Museum opens at 10:00 AM. Visit the remainder of museum for a lovely collection of late impressionist painters, such as Renoir, Soutine, Picasso.  Given the excitement about the renovation, try to get tickets several weeks or days before you intend to visit.  You can purchase tickets Online from FNAC. 

Jardin des Tuileries. Starting at l'Orangerie, with the l'Arc de Triomphe at your back, stroll through the Tuileries, ending at L'Arch du Carrousel and Les Pyramides at the Louvre. The Tuileries are being re-landscaped following a much less formal design. Many modern pieces of sculpture have been installed permanently in the gardens, e.g., Rodin; Modigliani.

Walk around the L'Arch du Carrousel to see the exhibition center for the Louvre which opened in 1993. You will be very near the I.M. Pei designed Les Pyramides which also serve as the entrance to the "new" Louvre. Start after 10:30 AM so you can get some light. Save some time for sitting beside the fountains to people watch. If it is cloudy, save this tour for a clear day. You may wish to sample a few of the highlights of the Musée du Louvre. However, you can spend a lifetime in le Louvre, so find at least a day to devote to one or two sections, at the most. See the remainder on future trips to Paris. Don't miss the new shopping arcade below the pyramid. There is a Virgin Megastore and lots of interesting boutiques. Try the Restaurant Marley in the Louvre. (You'll need to reserve.)

Also, visit the new Richelieu and Sully passages between les Pyramides and rue Rivoli. They are on your left as you face the les Pyramides with the Arch du Carrousel at your back. During your tour of the Richelieu wing, stop at the Café Richelieu for a coffee or lunch. There is a great view of les Pyramides. The café is non-smoking because it is part of the Louvre. As you exit the Richelieu passage, you will be facing rue Rivoli, and you will see signs to the gardens of the Le Palais-Royal. Le Palais-Royal is, essentially, across rue Rivoli from le Louvre. Inside there are some very interesting specialty shops selling such bizarre merchandise as military decorations, toy soldiers, and flags. There are several restaurants where you can sit, have a coffee, read the paper or write to a friend. Le Grand Vefour, is an old time, Parisian restaurant located in the far corner.

Come back to Les Pyramides, then walk toward the Seine by going through an arcade on your left as you stand with Les Pyramides at your back and the Arch du Carrousel in front of you. Cross the Seine to the Rive Gauche ("Left Bank") using the Pont du Carrousel, then turn right. Walk along the quai toward the Musée d'Orsay. Plan to spend at least two hours at the Musée ("Museum"). Be sure to see the clock on the third level and Rodin's Gates of Hell. There is a decent but expensive restaurant in the museum; the museum's cafeteria is adequate. Walk along the banks of the Seine toward Le Cathedrale de Notre Dame. Often you can find some treasurers being sold by the "bookinistes" at their small stalls along the banks of the Seine.

Send your suggestions to: mel@croner.biz